Usefull Hints

 

This is a page of general information covering some problems you might encounter and a few tips.

PROBLEMS

Blistering of Paint on Plaster

May occur if solvent-based paints are over coated with an emulsion paint in an area that suffers from condensation. It may be that the paint was applied in damp conditions.

Scrape back to a firm edge all loose paint. Lightly sand the surface. Spot prime bare areas with a Primer Sealer, and use an Acrylic Eggshell for painting.

 

Flaking of Paint on Plaster and Masonry Surfaces

Could be due to a variety of causes. - Could be moisture beneath the paint film or possibly paint has been applied to a greasy or powdery surface. Perhaps the paint was applied over a solvent based paint.

Scrape back to a firm edge all loose paint. Lightly sand the surface If the previous coating was a solvent-based paint or gloss finish then it will probably be necessary to repaint with a solvent-based paint again.

Flaking/Blistering of Paint on Wood

Flaking/blistering of paint on wood is most commonly caused by moisture beneath the paint film. Knots in the timber can also lead to blistering. Flaking can occur if paint has been applied over denatured wood, dirt, grease, etc. Movement of the wood, particularly on joints can cause it to crack. This can allow moisture to penetrate the wood which in time can lead to flaking.

Areas of flaking or blistering paint should be removed by scraping back to a firm edge using a paint scraper. Sand down to smooth edges. If the problem is extensive the surface should be stripped back to bare wood. All knots streaks should be treated Knotting Solution and then bare wood should be primed. Make good all open joints and surface with suitable wood filler.

Cracks in Plaster

The development of small cracks on inside plaster walls and ceilings is not unusual and is normally the result of drying out (in the case of new houses) or movement of the building. Large cracks that appear to be getting wider should be investigated by a building surveyor.

Cut out all cracks and dust off. Fill, with a suitable interior filler in accordance with the manufacturers instructions for use. Allow to dry then rub down smooth and dust off.

Condensation Control

The amount of water vapor that air can hold is limited. When this limit is reached the air is said to be saturated. Most condensation in buildings is caused by warm moist air coming in contact with cooler surfaces. In houses condensation is most likely to occur in kitchens and bathrooms. Some forms of heating generate large volumes of moisture vapor, paraffin stoves being the most notable.

Condensation is best prevented or controlled by providing good ventilation. Heating combined with good ventilation will reduce the problem. Special anti-condensation paints will provide short term relief, but painting alone will not cure the problem. Conditions within the building must be improved.

Dampness in Walls

Where damp is a problem it may be  broken or defective rainwater pipes and gutters, defective pointing in brickwork, unsuitable cladding, solid wall construction or other general building defects. The source of the dampness should be found and cured. The surface must be allowed to completely dry before painting. A shellac based sealer can then be applied prior to over painting in the finish required.

TIPS

Paint or Woodstain - Which is best for your project?

 

Wood finishes can be divided into four main groups:

1-Preservative

Colours and preserves new or weathered  timber. Cannot be applied over any film build coatings i.e. all the other wood finish categories listed below.

2-Paints

High build coatings which obliterate the underlying surface i.e. they are opaque.

3-Varnishes

High build coatings through which the underlying surface can be seen i.e. they are transparent.

4-Woodstains

Can be low to high build coatings which are either semitransparent i.e. they are coloured but allow the underlying surface to be seen or they can be opaque, obliterating the surface.

WOODSTAINS - IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE

The final colour is very dependant on build (film thickness), number of coats and the underlying surface colour and texture.

Repeated decoration with the same colour of woodstain will eventually darken the colour.

When redecorating dark colours, it is often advisable to chose a light colour for protection of the surface without changing the colour too much.

Knots in timber must be treated with knotting when applying paint or opaque woodstain.

White (bleached) knotting must be used with water based coatings.

Where fillers have been used, colour will vary with the surrounding timber.

DIY Interior Painting

If you are keen to undertake the work yourselves, this guide as to the sequence of operations may be helpful.

Sequence of operations before painting:

• Remove pictures, mirrors and light fittings.
• Remove small and light furniture.
• Place heavy & bulky furniture in centre of room.
• Cover floor and furniture with dust sheets.
• Remove curtains.
• Remove fittings.

Sequence of operations for preparation:

• All processes should commence at the highest point & work downwards. Wash, abrade and make good surfaces in the following order: ceiling & cornice, frieze and dado, windows, doors & other woodwork.
• Remove rubbish from site.
• Spot prime bare patches.

Sequence of operations for painting:

• Working from top: ceiling & cornice, frieze & dado, windows, doors.
• Other woodwork, completing with skirting board.

Sequence of operations before hanging surface coverings:

• Prepare as for interior painting.
• Undercoat as for interior painting, omitting surfaces to be papered
• Size and cross-line if necessary.
• Complete painting as for Interior Painting, taking paint 6mm on to lining paper at cornice, architrave's and skirting.

Period Properties

The ability to breath is vital to the survival of almost all historic buildings and the application of impermeable modern renders and coatings must be avoided at all costs. Send us an email and we will be happy to provide you with information